Acne Scarring 101 - My Healing and Treatment Experience
Top photo is August 2022 Bottom photo is August 2024
A Journey (truly!) of Internal and External Transformation
When I began my journey to heal my skin (if you haven’t read about it, you can find my story in two parts here and here, with MORE photos), I quickly realized that acne scarring wasn't just a surface issue—it was a reflection of deeper imbalances within my body and mind. Unfortunately, the changes I made to my birth control didn’t solve the problem instantly, as I had hoped. My hormones were still all over the place, and my stress levels were through the roof, further fueling my anxiety and worsening my skin. Stress, after all, can be the most inflammatory thing in the world if we let it! This journey led me to explore both holistic and modern approaches to truly heal from the inside out.
Healing from the Inside Out
I knew that to see real, lasting change in my skin, I had to start from within. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) has always resonated with me, and it provided a framework that made sense of the connection between my emotions and my physical health. My acupuncturist and health guru (Philippe Bruzzone - find him here), helped me see that my skin issues were a manifestation of emotional and physical imbalances. TCM teaches that when our Qi, or energy, is stagnant, it can lead to blockages that show up in various ways, including acne.
My journey began with balancing my hormones and healing my gut—an ongoing process. I discovered that I had a mild form of PCOS, which was disrupting my hormones, and a leaky gut, which was causing inflammation. Rather than resorting to quick fixes, I embraced a holistic approach. This included following an anti-inflammatory diet and eliminating foods I was intolerant to, such as gluten and dairy. I also incorporated healing herbs like milk thistle for liver support and spearmint tea to help manage my hormone levels. Additionally, I took supplements like vitamin D, essential for cell regeneration and hormone production, as well as zinc, which supports skin health. Probiotics were also key in healing my gut. Vitamin E became a staple in my routine for its skin-healing properties, both taken internally and applied topically.
External Treatments: Gentle Care
But what I could not get out of my mind when my skin did start to cool in terms of active acne was the scars, that were deep in my skin. This journey required ongoing inner work, like embracing self-acceptance and recognizing my self-worth beyond just my physical appearance. It meant diving deeper into acknowledging my skills, talents, and the positive qualities that define me. This was the real heart of the work—learning to genuinely appreciate who I am beyond the reflection in the mirror. As I began to value myself for more than just my appearance, I found a deeper sense of confidence and self-love that fueled my healing process. This was actively working to heal those “inner scars”. There’s definitely a whole blog post worth of insights here for another time.
But simultaneously, I also knew I needed to find treatments and products that worked to address those deeper scars too. As my internal healing progressed, I knew it was time to address the stubborn acne scars that had lingered.
I started with gentler, non-invasive treatments like the following:
Zelens Power A Retinol:
Power A Retinol products are made from Vitamin A
Vitamin A/retinol, is an active ingredient that you can get to address some surface acne scarring or even discoloration of the skin which promotes skin cell turnover and helps fade scars over time. Retinol can be used as nighttime ritual, gradually revealing fresher, smoother skin. It should not be used during periods of prolonged exposure to sun because retinol makes the skin extremely sensitive to sun. Find it here.
I also used a lot of sunscreen especially mineral ones which are superior because they contain Zinc which creates a protective layer around the scars. The key difference between mineral (or physical) sunscreens and chemical sunscreens lies in how they interact with the sun's rays. Mineral sunscreens use active ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface, reflecting UV light away. Unlike chemical sunscreens, they don’t absorb into the skin. My favourite one was Elta MD because it was also tinted and created the effect of wearing make up which I explicitly tried to avoid with active scabs or scars to avoid infection or irritation. I used to only buy them in Canada, but apparently you can find them here. This was to avoid further damage to the skin, the scarring and further hyperpigmentation to the area.
Elta MD Tinted Sunscreen:
Tinted Sunscreen by Elta MD, SPF 46
However, for the deeper scars, I needed something more intensive. That's when I turned to different dermatological procedures.
External Treatments: Advanced Procedures
My absolute favourite is radiofrequency (RF) microneedling.
Microneedling RF is a non-invasive treatment that uses around 40-49 titanium, gold or other pure metal needles to create micro-injury to the skin. The treatment is provided by devices like Morpheus8 (a trendy one these days), Secret RF, Potenza RF but I used Genius at Forever Institut in Geneva, and another brand (the name slipped my mind) at MedCosmetics in Toronto (with my favourite Dr. Habib and Lana), which combine microneedling with RF energy to stimulate collagen and elastin production deep within the skin. This treatment has been a game-changer for me, helping to reduce the appearance of scars and improve my skin’s overall texture (I mean just look at the main photo!). Typically, it takes about three to four sessions to see significant results, though this can vary depending on the severity of the scars.
Firstly, get familiar with how the microneedling machine looks like to minimize potential fear around the machine. I can tell you I was terrified by it when I first looked at it as I am genuinely afraid of needles and other invasive medical tools.
Source here.
The handpiece with the microneedles looks a bit more intense, especially if it is your first time seeing it. But I promise it’s not a scary torture weapon but truly a magic advancement in science.
Source here
Things to consider:
The place is key! In my opinion, the most important factor is where you get the treatment done. I wouldn’t recommend opting for a “cheaper option” here because newer machines may be more effective, and a more experienced dermatologist will know how to tailor the treatment’s strength to your skin and the machine’s capabilities. It’s crucial to trust the practitioners handling your procedures; while the machine brand matters a little less, the expertise of the person using it is key. RF microneedling devices like Morpheus8, Profound RF, and Secret RF offer similar benefits, each with unique techniques.
It’s not cheap. I’m fully aware that this isn’t a luxury everyone can afford, but for me, it was something I was absolutely willing to save for or find the most cost-effective way to splurge on, such as buying a package or traveling to other cities with more options (Paris has some great choices for around 200$-300$ a session). I paid below 1000 CHF for three sessions in Geneva, which is quite a good price, but that was during a special deal at Forever Institut when they just received their Genius machine. However, a single session can cost as much as 700 CHF, depending on the location.
Buy a package because results come after a few sessions. If your scars are deeper, like mine were, I suggest purchasing a package of three sessions if possible. This allows you to space the treatments over a shorter period and save some money. The key with RF microneedling is that it activates fibroblasts in the deeper layers of the skin, encouraging the dermis to heal by responding to the micro-damage created by the machine. Different machines have varying downtimes, ranging from one day to a week. Keep in mind that results aren’t immediate; they typically appear about four weeks later, as your skin cells go through their turnover cycle. The best results often appear after six months and multiple sessions in a short period. I’d recommend scheduling your treatments during the winter, especially about a month to six weeks before any sunny vacation.
No denying it’s painful. You might see some places offering microneedling with a DermaPen, but this isn’t the same caliber as RF microneedling machines. The RF devices have many needles at the end of what looks like a small flashlight (as per the photos), which are literally stamped into your skin—very painful, by the way. The Dermapen is more like a small, massage-like toothpick that can affect the upper layer of the dermis but doesn’t create the deeper, collagen-inducing, plasma, and fibroblast-activating effects that RF does. You’ll need numbing cream, laughing gas, or other numbing substances because it’s quite painful otherwise. I had a (VERY) fun time with the laughing gas at Forever Institut, which I had never tried before. I did it once without any numbing aid (big mistake!) and thought I might pass out from the pain.
Support your body with your thoughts and actions because this encourages your body’s ability to heal itself. What I appreciated most about these treatments is that they’re minimally invasive (no injections, no laser or peeling) and stimulate your body’s natural healing abilities, which really aligns with my ethos of allowing my body to heal itself. I made a conscious effort to use positive thoughts daily to encourage my body to heal, becoming my own best friend and treating my body and skin with the care they deserve. I also gave my skin something we often don’t offer our bodies, time and compassion, to heal. These encouraging thoughts, combined with this type of treatment, meant minimal downtime—important for me, as I didn’t want to disrupt my daily life more than necessary. You might come out looking a bit sunburnt at worst, but that usually fades within about three days.
Mindset Meets Modern Technology
What I’ve learned throughout this journey is that healing acne scars involves much more than just the products and procedures you use. Yes, advanced treatments like RF microneedling can make a big difference, but without addressing the internal factors—such as self-worth, self-talk, hormone imbalances, gut health, and stress—the results won’t be lasting.
As I continued to heal, I realized that my skin reflected my internal state. On days when I was stressed or overly critical of myself, my skin would react more. But when I focused on self-love, acceptance, and nourishing my body with the right foods, herbs, and vitamins, my skin responded positively.
Where my skin is now, my favorite lotions and potions from Furtuna Skin, Mousse, and Rudolph Care work beautifully. I love starting my morning routine with a lymphatic massage and making sure that 99% of my skincare is clean. My food choices are a daily reflection of my choosing myself, while my evening spearmint tea ritual is a small, daily act of self-care that helps balance my hormones too.
Today, my skin has done a complete 360, and I’m proud of the progress I’ve made. My scars have faded significantly, although some are still there but they are more a symbol of my strength and resilience than anything else now. More importantly, I’ve developed a deeper understanding of how interconnected my body and mind are. My journey is ongoing; I still do microneedling because this treatment also improves wrinkles and fine lines. And while I still experience the occasional breakout, I no longer see it as a setback. Instead, I view it as a message from my body, guiding me toward greater balance and health.
This journey isn’t just about clearer skin; it’s about learning to listen to and love my body, inside and out. And that, I’ve come to realize, is the most powerful healing of all.
More photos of my skin before and after:
This side was quite bad - The results though are QUITE Extraordinary!!! Top photo is August 2022 Bottom photo is August 2024